Almost all anglers begin their fishing career at their local creek, jetty or impoundment chasing bread and butter fish such as bream, whiting, flathead, trout, bass or barramundi. It is the ideal way to start out and learn the basic fundamentals of fishing such as tackle, technique, location, rigs, knots and baits.

Good fishing can be had with or without a boat. A boat gives you more options and allows you to cover a bigger area whereas land-based anglers are limited by foot. On several occasions, I have out fished anglers with boats that were anchored within casting distance from my location. For me, the most important factor when it comes to fishing the estuaries is local knowledge. If your new to an area, seek advice from at least two or three local tackle stores about where and when to fish and the best baits. Estuary fishing is a nice and relaxing way to spend the day or night. With careful planning, a feed of fish can be achieved every time. It is also relatively inexpensive where everyone can afford to participate without breaking the bank.

When I fish the estuaries, I almost always source live bait. A cast net or drag net is very effective for catching mullet, herring, whiting and hardy heads. Jewfish, threadfin salmon and big bream often cannot resist a live baitfish pinned once through the back or the mouth. A bait pump is essential if you want to use yabbies on the sand flats. Bream and whiting absolutely love bass yabbies. Because they are quite soft, they can come off the hook when making the cast so you will need to pay attention when rigging making sure the hook protrudes out through the harder section of the yabby A garden fork is required if you want a supply of worms. Worms are probably the best bait for whiting and bream. They are very hardy and one bait will usually account for two or more fish. Depending on where your fishing, dead frozen baits can be just as effective as live bait. When I fish one of my local creeks, I use the old faithful pilchard on one rod set in the holder while I wade the banks and flick plastics on the other rod. This technique is deadly on flathead and tailor in my area. Other effective frozen baits include chicken gut, mullet gut, prawns, whitebait and squid.

Flathead 79cm

The tackle I use depends on where I’m fishing and what I’m targeting. I always have one bait and one soft plastics combo. For bait fishing, I use an ugly stik fibreglass rod about 6-7ft in length and rated at about 2-5kg. Select a rod that is whippy in the tip with a bit of power in the butt section. Reels should be in the 2500 size range. These reels are light and will hold about 200m of approximately 10lb mono or much more if using braid. I use a Shimano Sedona and it has never let me down. The line I use is 9lb Schneider.

You do not need top shelf gear. A decent combo should only set you back about $100-150.

The soft plastics outfit is a bit more expensive being a more specialised form of fishing. I use a 7ft Shimano t-curve 2-4kg rod matched to a 2500 Shimano Symetre loaded with 4lb fireline and 12lb Vanish fluorocarbon leader. A good soft plastics outfit will cost you about $150-200. These two outfits can also double as a spinning or popping combo if tailor or other surface fish are around which can be very useful at times. If you intend on targeting bigger fish, you will need to upgrade your gear to maybe a 10kg rod matched to a 6000 size reel. If using live or big baits, a lot of the time you will get smashed by something big whether it’s a jewfish or a threadfin salmon so it certainly pays to have a heavier outfit on reserve. This is more often than not fishing at night as bigger fish seem to be more scarce during daylight hours.

The way I rig up for bait fishing is by using a running sinker rig. There are two versions of this rig. The first is simply a ball sinker rigged to run directly on top of the hook. This is one of my favourite rigs not only in the estuaries but also offshore. Its simple and effective and you can be back in business in seconds. It is so simple, you can tie this rig in the dark. I use this rig when chasing bream and flathead in the estuaries. If I’m chasing whiting, I’ll use the second version of the running sinker rig. This rig involves a 30-60cm trace and is connected to a swivel. The sinker sits above the swivel and runs freely up and down the mainline. Above your hook, add a piece of red or pink plastic tubing as this seems to attract the whiting.

Rigging the soft plastics outfit starts with a short bimini double on the braided mainline. The doubled line is then joined to the leader using an albright knot. The jighead is then tied directly to the end of the leader using a loop knot.

There are lots of different areas to try out when estuary fishing. I like to fish the sandbanks in my local creek on a falling tide. I have caught all sorts of fish in this area depending on the bait I’m using. You can also gather a good supply of fresh bait such as bass yabbies, soldier crabs, bloodworms and baitfish. I also like to fish pontoons particularly where sand meets rock with oyster leases. These areas are home to big bream and other species such as jewfish, tailor and trevally. You will lose a lot more gear fishing these spots but the rewards can be phenomenal at times. If you have a boat, try areas that are not accessible by foot such as mangrove and canal living areas. Other popular areas to fish include the local jetty and rock walls.

The best time to fish the estuaries is at night or early morning. Daylight hours are very recreational and can be very loud which will spook the fish. Plan your trip to coincide with the turn of the tide whether it’s a high or a low tide. This is what has worked for me but as mentioned in an earlier juncture, every location is different and the best tip when fishing a new area is to seek local advice.

Fishing Nerang River, Gold Coast QLD Australia

Berleying is absolutely critical when fishing the estuaries. Once you arrive at your selected spot, berley heavily to try and attract as much fish as you can. After that, its just a matter of throwing in a bit of berley every so often to keep the fish in the area. You can choose to make your own berley or buy them pre-packaged from the service station. I use aniseed pre-packaged berley and find that this has worked well. I also cut up and throw in some of the bait I use to try and match the hatch.

Another technique to try out when fishing the estuaries is to keep your bait moving. Whiting and flathead in particular love a moving bait. Don’t wind too fast as they are not active fish that like to chase their food. With flathead, include two or three sharp lifts of the rod every few seconds as you wind in especially when flicking soft plastics. Flathead like to hit the bait as it makes its way back down to the bottom. And if things are really quiet, try moving around instead of staying at a stationery position.

Recommended estuary videos

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8u8klo1pEfM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p_oLpIAp8Tw

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wQVqmjYoybg&NR=1

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=23Vkl7q87Js&feature=related

Recommended knot tying videos

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KmXigW2xRCg

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nV2baROgoPc

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tezh4McgNTA

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s40lmqVux4E

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=29gA6lq-0Vs

Bottom fishing or bottom bashing as it is more commonly known  is a widely used method of offshore fishing that has been around for centuries. It involves dropping a lump of lead followed by two hooks set on dropper loops suspended above it. This rig is referred to as the ’paternoster rig’. The main target species when bottom bashing are usually fish that live and hang around the bottom and include fish such as snapper, pearl perch, sweetlip, emperor, nannygai, cod and much more. It is a method aimed at filling the esky rather than specifically targeting the bigger fish. Nevertheless, bottom fishing is fun and when the fish are on, it can be a very rewarding and action-packed day.

Bottom fish such as snapper and pearl perch inhabit areas consisting of reef, weed, pinnacles, ledges, and wrecks. Once you have located some good structure on the sounder, it’s best to head up current, berley up and fish at anchor. The less noise you make, the better your chances are of catching fish so try to get your anchoring right at the first attempt. If you must drift, do not drive over the strike zone and drive around it. Fish can and will be easily spooked by engine noise which will put them off the bite particularly if fishing relatively shallow water. A drift anchor will dramatically slow down the speed of the drift if the current is running hard so it certainly pays to have one on board.

Bottom bashing rigs are commonly baited up with strips or cubes of dead frozen baits such as pilchards or squid. Other people have had success using live bait and even soft plastics. The technique is simply lowering the rig to the ocean floor and turning the reel a couple of times once the sinker has hit the bottom. The movement of the boat and current is often enough to give the plastic and strip baits a life-like appearance which appeal to the fish. Some anglers like to hold their rods whereas others prefer to sit them in the rod holders and let the fish hook themselves. It is personal preference and what you choose should be what you’re most comfortable with.

Monofilament line is the most popular choice for bottom bashing however some swear by braided line believing that the zero-stretch factor helps them to feel the bites better and put more fish in the esky. Personally, I prefer mono as it has served me well and I feel no need to change from what I am comfortable with. Popular hooks for bottom bashing are the octopus style hooks in Gamakatsu, Mustad and Owner. The use of circle hooks is gaining huge popularity on the theory that “When fish get hooked, they stay hooked” with their odd design. If using circle hooks, the most important thing to remember is not to strike at a bite. Allow the rod to load up then simply fight the fish with a lift and wind motion. I’m not a big fan of circle hooks because I feel that not striking at a bite or when the fish runs takes away the enjoyment and defeats the purpose of fishing.

When choosing a rod, short stokers are the way to go so look for something under 6ft. Anything longer than this will place too much bend and pressure on the rod tip before even hooking a fish. Depending on where your fishing, the rod should be rated at about 10-24kg. Popular reels for this kind of fishing are the overhead reels. The Shimano TLD series and Penn senators are very good choices but there are lots more to choose from in the Daiwa range, Okuma, Pflueger, and Finnor. Look for reels with a lower gear ratio from 4.0:1 to 4.9:1 as they have more torque to help extract big fish from the deep. Do not buy a reel that is too heavy because you are sometimes required to hold your rod for most of the day and you will have a dead arm before the sun breaks the horizon.

Tying a paternoster rig starts with forming a short double on the main line for extra strength. Then tie the double directly to a swivel. Next, you will need a roll of leader anywhere between 50-100lb subject to where your fishing and what your fishing for. Tie a small loop knot at the tag end of the leader. This is where your sinker will be attached. The first dropper loop is then tied 50cm above the sinker. Move up another 50cm and tie the second dropper loop. You will then need to cut off the leader line about 30cm above the second dropper loop. The rig is finished off by tying the other tag end of the leader to your swivel. For added attraction, use jinkai luminescent beads or tubes directly above the hook. Tubes also help to protect the line from being cut off by the fish’s teeth.

Recommended bottom bashing videos

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NhkHHeW79fA

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kR6s6zCeSx4&feature=fvw

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AKheEmgNfJc&feature=channel

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fk5s8Xevqmg&feature=channel

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7r2LWDj3fQk&feature=channel

Recommended knot tying videos

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4mia2OjRl3w&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cJxKT76uTiM&feature=related

Trolling is the art of drawing a lure or bait through the water column and trying to trigger a fish to strike. There is nothing more exciting and adrenalin pumping than watching a fish come up from the depths and smashing your lure. It is a sport that entails a lot of patience with a lot of teamwork. Without proper planning, there will be mayhem which is a situation you don’t want to be in when trolling. When the unexpected occurs and 3 or 4 multiple hook-ups occur simultaneously, you need the right crew with the know-how on what to do and how and when to do it. This will make for a much more comfortable day out on the water trolling gamefish. There is a host of fish species that will attack a trolled lure and they include wahoo, mackerel, tuna, kingfish, dolphin fish, sailfish, marlin and many more.

When people think of trolling, straight away they think of big shiny golden overhead reels on short stroker rods. Truth is, with advancements in technology, even the most unorthodox methods of trolling have yielded amazing results in the modern era. The days of trolling with the customary overhead reels and mono fishing line is now a thing of the past as more and more anglers turn to braided line and heavy duty spin reels. Trolling tackle is a very subjective topic but no matter what you choose, make sure the gear is in the middle to high end because they can and do cop a battering. Popular overhead reels are the Shimano TLD’s, tyrnos, tiagra and the Daiwa saltist. If you prefer to troll with spin, take a look at the Shimano stella, Saragosa, spheros, Daiwa saltiga, Okuma v system and the Pflueger torsion. Most times, these spin reels can also double as a jigging outfit so you have that versatility over an overhead combo.

When selecting a rod, length is the most critical element. Trolling rods should be between 5-6ft and rated at 10-24kg depending on the targeted species. Line weight should be between 20-80lb mono or braid depending on the reel. Fishing leader should be about 80-200lb once again depending on the situation. Fluorocarbon leader is a popular choice due to its invisibility in water. At times, the use of wire is required when the fish constantly cuts through the mono. But as a general rule, stay away from wire because you will get a lot less bites.  You will also need quality snap swivels and tools such as pliers and gloves for rigging and handling fish.

Rigging can be as simple or as complicated as you want to make it. Start by tying a double of about 30cm using a bimini twist. Join the doubled main line to your leader using an Albright knot. Leader length should be about 4-8m. The rig is finished off by tying a loop knot directly to a snap swivel which is connected to the lure. If you must use wire, simply tie a swivel to the end of the leader. The wire is connected to the other end of the swivel and the lure using a haywire twist. This method of rigging is widely used and very effective on most species that you will encounter.

Effective lures for trolling are many and varied. Make sure you are well stocked with a variety of different types, size and colours to maximise your chances especially on days where the fish are fussy. A combination of surface and diving lures is the norm when trolling. Popular surface lures include saltwater flies, christmas tree style lures and other skirted lures. These lures create bubble trails and vibrations when trolled through the water and predatory fish often find them irresistible. The best colours are usually black/purple, green lumo and pink. Top brands include the Pakula range and Williamson. Most of them come pre-rigged and ready for use. With deep diving lures, you cannot go past the Rapala CD range and Halco laser pros. They also come rigged with hooks and ready for immediate fishing. The important thing to remember with diving lures is that they must run straight. You will need to test this first on the side of the boat. If the lure is not running straight and tracking either left or right, you will need to adjust the bib of the lure by bending it at the direction the lure was tracking using a pair of pliers. Successful colours in this style of lure are white/red, blue/red, green, and orange. The general rule with lure colour is dark colours on overcast days and bright colours on sunny days. Have a mixture of shallow and deep diving and this will cover most fishing situations.

The best time to go trolling is usually early morning from first light till about 8am. You can still catch fish mid-morning and throughout the day but the action would be a lot slower taking into consideration noise and visibility. If possible, try to plan your trip around a change of tide regardless of a high or low tide as this usually brings the fish on the bite. When trolling, the obvious thing to look out for is birds working the surface. This indicates a school of fleeing baitfish that are being rounded up by predators. Be mindful not to spook the fish and keep your distance. Other areas to troll over are rocky headlands, pinnacles, bommies and where other boats are concentrated. Your electronics will come in very handy here. Keep a close eye on the bottom for structure or any signs of baitfish. Summer time is usually the best time to troll for pelagics as the mercury rises and the water temperature starts to climb. Other times of the year, the fish are not so prolific but they are still around. Its been rumoured that these loner fish fall into a different size bracket and normally come close to or exceed the 20kg mark.

John's Wahoo off Morton Island, Brisbane Qld

There are three critical elements to consider when trolling. It is not a simple matter of dropping a lure in the water and moving off hoping for the best. The correct boat speed, positioning of lures and proper drag settings will ensure you have the best chance of success.

Regardless of what lure your using, start by placing it alongside the boat and watch as you slowly increase speed. Deep diving lures work best at a speed when there is a very strong action but not popping through the surface. Keep a close eye on the rod tip as this will tell you everything you need to know. If the tip is bouncing up and down constantly, then everything is perfect. If its not, the line may have fouled up on itself and you will need to wind up and restart the process. It is also important to check after each fish as the impact and pressure from the strike may alter the swimming action of the lure. Skirted lures are most effective at a speed when they occasionally break the surface before entering the water again leaving a trail of bubbles. Saltwater flies will work at any speed. It’s best to have them below the waters surface and if they pop out, you can either reduce speed or run them further back out the boat.

Positioning the lures is important so that you minimise line tangles while manoeuvring.  A full spread of lures usually consists of a short corner, long corner, short rigger, long rigger and a shot gun. The short and long corner refers to lures set on each side of the transom. The short corner being the one closest to the boat. The short and long rigger refers to lures set on the outriggers. The shot gun is the lure run straight through the middle of the spread and can be anywhere between 50-100m. When manoeuvring, always turn to the side with the longest line and the lines will not cross. Try to stagger the lures close to the boat as fish are attracted to the wash created by the motor and will come in very close. A little trick here is to trim your motor out a bit and this helps to create more bubbles in the wake. Lures trolled further back will get hit but nowhere near as much as the ones in close. However, fish can be very finicky and boat shy so it does pay to have a lure further back on the shot gun.

The reels drag pressure should be set so that there is a good bend in the rod without line peeling off unless you get a strike. The proper setting should have enough pressure to set the hook when the fish strikes. When you got the fish on, you can always increase the drag pressure to play the fish in. Always check your hook before placing the lure back in the water making sure the hook point remains super sharp for better penetration.

Once you’ve determined the positioning of the lures, you’re now ready to start trolling and covering some ground. Obviously the more ground you cover, the better your chances are of finding fish. Instead of running straight, move in a forward zigzag motion. Another tip is to occasionally stop the boat before increasing speed again and fish will often strike as the lure picks up momentum. If the action is slow, you can also try changing lures, rigging techniques, slow trolling livies or even re-positioning the lures. Another effective method is to slow troll a ganged pilchard with a small ball sinker and a rubber squid rigged to run right down to the pilchard’s nose. Once again, look out for sea birds, baitfish and good structure on the sounder.

When you get a strike, there are different ways of boating the fish. Everyone has their own opinions and ways that have worked for them. Personally, I like to maintain the same speed for a couple of reasons. The first is the possibility of multiple hook-ups from the same school of fish. Increasing the boats speed or stopping the boat may either spook the fish or turn them off. The other reason is so that the other lines remain straight and more manageable particularly when fighting a fish that has been hooked in close. This is what we do and has worked very well but everyone has their own ideas and what works for them. Use common sense backed by teamwork and trolling can and will be a lot of fun.

Recommended trolling videos

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cbmkRNFUXLM&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ELLjeLFU6Eg&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=16EPJr3lNQs

Recommended knot tying videos

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LNx8BbFOqKI

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IIZ7r-oKTzw

Float baiting or float lining for snapper is without a doubt my favorite way to fish offshore. It is very productive and relatively inexpensive compared to other forms of offshore fishing. Float baiting is a way of presenting the bait or lure to the fish so that it appears as natural as possible. The bait or lure is rigged in a way that allows it to drift slowly towards the fish and because the fish see and feel minimal resistance, more often than not they will snap at your offering before it reaches the bottom. The bigger, more educated and better quality fish usually sit up off the bottom whereas the juvenile fish and other ooglies (better known as rubbish fish) tend to sit on the bottom. The best part about float lining is that it accounts for most of the quality fish that end up in the esky. Because of its natural presentation, all species of fish fall victim to this style of fishing. A day chasing snapper on the floatline could mean a day with an esky full of mixed reef fish and pelagics. When it comes to fishing, you can only catch what is around. Floating for snapper nowadays is a very popular way to fish and you will not see a boat heading offshore without some sort of floatline rig or outfit. Most times, float baiting can mean the difference between coming home empty-handed and depressed or coming home with what anglers like to call “bagged out” which means reaching the bag limit on all the fish species caught on that particular day.

The best locations to float bait for snapper are areas that consist of hard reef, drop-offs, pinnacles, ledges, shipwrecks and areas of weed and broken reef. Snapper like to hang around these areas for its abundance of food and protection from both predators and current. Using your GPS, navigate to your saved waypoint or to locate a new area to fish. Begin a trial drift to determine current and wind direction and speed. Once this is established, simply drive up-current of the strike zone and begin fishing. Repeat the process once you have drifted over the strike zone and get no more bites. Fishing at anchor is much the same. Locate the fish, mark the spot on the plotter or GPS, drive up-current of the strike zone, anchor up and fish  back towards the strike zone. Although not essential, berleying is highly recommended as this will help to bring the fish on the bite. When berleying, it is important to ’match the hatch’ which means that if your fishing with pilchards, squid and other baitfish, then make sure your berley mixture also contains these ingredients. It makes little sense in berleying and luring the snapper with prawns when you are baiting up and trying to catch them on  pilchards and squid.

The technique used for float baiting snapper depends on the chosen gear. On overhead gear, simply engage the free-spool and allow the line to peel off the reel. You need to keep your thumb on the spool to control the speed at which the line comes off the reel and avoid any overruns. Snapper will usually hit the bait during its descent so you will need to pay close attention. When you get hit, the angler will certainly know about it because the fish will usually swallow and take off with the bait. When you sense this, use your thumb to apply pressure on the line and raise the rod to set the hook. You then need to immediately disengage the free-spool by returning the lever drag back to strike where you can now fight the fish. On spin gear, if you are drifting you will need to cast out as far as you can as the same direction of the drift towards the strike zone. If anchored, the technique is to cast up-current of the strike zone and the bait is allowed to drift back towards the fish. Trial and error will help you pinpoint exactly where to cast and locate the fish. Once the cast is made, leave the bail arm open and pay out some line. As a general rule of thumb, pay out about half the depth of the water you are fishing in. When this is done, close the bail arm and engage the bait runner by flicking up the bait runner switch. There is a part at the bottom of the reel where you can adjust the bait runners drag pressure. You need to let out a few metres of line every few minutes to try and find the fish and provoke a strike. Wind in and re-cast if you don’t get a bite in about 10 minutes. An important point to remember here is if you’re using circle hooks, do not strike at the fish. When the fish goes for a run, simply lower the rod and allow it to load up. Then with a couple of turns of the reel, the fish should be hooked and the angler can play in the fish with the usual pump and wind action.

As stated earlier, the tackle required for offshore float baiting is relatively inexpensive. You don’t need top-of-the-line gear but you do need the right gear. With reel selection, the angler can choose between spin or overhead. Overhead reels are more popular but both fish equally as well. And because float lining requires the angler to hold the rod for most of the day, it only makes sense to choose a reel that is light. Ideally, it should hold about 300m of 20-30lb mono-filament line and have about 10kg of drag pressure. On overhead reels, both lever and star drags are fine. Most anglers prefer the lever drag for their versatility in other offshore fishing applications and some think they are stronger and smoother than the star drags. Some overhead reels also come with a level-wind system which automatically lays line evenly on the spool upon retrieving line. It is a very useful and well thought-out feature however some believe this dramatically reduces the overall power of the reel. Recommended overhead reels for float lining snapper offshore include the best-selling Shimano TLD’s, tyrnos, Penn senators and the Okuma catalinas. For spin reels, look no further than the bait runner style reels. This reel features one main drag set on top of the reel and a secondary bait runner drag on the bottom of the reel. The whole purpose of the bait runner feature allows the fish to take off and eat the bait with little or no resistance. Recommended bait runner style spin reels include the complete Shimano bait runner series of reels and the Okuma salina.

Other recommended gear for float baiting snapper

Rods – 7ft 10-24kg Wilson live fibre, Shakespeare ugly stik, Shimano bluewater series, Silstar

Line – 20-30lb mono-filament in Schneider, Platypus, Surecatch

Leader – 30-40lb Penn 10x, Surecatch

Hooks – 4/0-8/0 octopus in Gamakatsu, Owner and Daiichi, Mustad big red, big gun and demon circle

Other terminal gear – ball sinkers size 0-10, 50lb crane swivels

The most common rig for float baiting snapper is a simple ball sinker straight onto the hook on the main line. Refrain from using braid as braid floats whereas mono-filament line sinks. 20-30lb mono is perfect for float baiting. Too light will mean more bust-offs and too heavy will cause too much resistance and less bites. Sinker size will vary depending on depth and current. You only need enough weight to get your bait on or near the bottom. On days with little or no current, the sinker can be removed completely with only the hook and bait at the end of the line. Hooks should be either ganged or snooded with two hooks for extra insurance in case of breaks off. The other rig used is the standard running sinker rig which consists of a ball sinker on the main line followed by a swivel. A leader is then attached to the other end of the swivel followed by your hook at the other end of the leader. Anglers that opt for this rig like the use of a heavier leader for its abrasion resistance against the snappers teeth or when the line rubs against reef and other structure.

Recommended float baiting videos

Amberjack reef, Gold coast snapper, Barwon banks snapper, Float baiting snapper, Caloundra wide, Float baiting snapper – Caloundra 12 mile.

http://www.coastwatch.com.au/Fishing/FishingVideos-701/

Recommended knot tying videos

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KmXigW2xRCg&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t3Ije4bLgmM&feature=channel

]]> http://www.reelsfishing.com.au/fishing-reels-float-baiting-snapper/feed/ 1 http://www.reelsfishing.com.au/fishing-reels-for-offshore-jigging/ http://www.reelsfishing.com.au/fishing-reels-for-offshore-jigging/#comments Tue, 14 Sep 2010 00:17:09 +0000 http://www.reelsfishing.com.au/?p=9 Continue reading →]]> Fishing Reels For Offshore Jigging

Jigging is just one of many forms of offshore fishing and is definitely not for the faint-hearted. It involves dropping a metal lure/knife jig to the ocean floor and winding it back up with an aggressive action to imitate an injured baitfish.  It is very physically demanding and will test tackle to its fullest. Only the best tackle is able to withstand this sort of fishing which is why jigging is one of the most expensive ways to fish. Having said that, jigging has laid claim to catches of all different types of fish species including reef fish, pelagics and game fish including record dogtooth tuna, kingfish, amberjack and samsonfish. Jigging is becoming increasingly popular as more and more anglers become aware of this exciting form of fishing and its ability to catch large predatory fish.

Like any type of fishing, location is the key to success. The best locations are those that hold good schools of baitfish as they are the main food source for species such as kingfish, amberjack and other predatory fish. Generally, these locations are near some sort of structure that consist of either reef, drop-offs, pinnacles or container ships. Investing in a quality GPS (global positioning system) unit is a ‘must have’ for locating these areas and for offshore fishing in general. It allows the angler to see everything that is underneath the boat whether its baitfish or predatory fish and the type of bottom you’ll be fishing in.

Jigging can be fished at anchor or on the drift very productively. If fishing at anchor, be mindful and make as minimal noise as possible. Try to get it right the first time because the more times you attempt to anchor correctly and if you include the engine noise, the fish may have already been spooked which greatly decreases your chances of catching them. Once your anchored, start a burley trail with cubes of old bait tossed out the back continuously or use a burley pot and musher. This will help to keep the fish in the area and sometimes bring about a feeding frenzy.

If drift fishing, make sure you use a drift anchor or sometimes called a sea parachute. It greatly slows down the drift on days where the current is raging. Looking like an oversized umbrella with a hole in the centre, it works by water entering the mouth of the parachute and exiting out the rear through the hole of the parachute. When the boat is moving, the sea anchor is almost pulling against it with the water pressure entering and exiting through the sea parachute. When you repeat the drift, remember to drive around the fish and not over them. Fish have a ability to sense the signal transmitted by the depth sounder. You also want to minimise the amount of engine noise so you don’t spook them.

The best technique for jigging is an aggressive and rigorous lift and wind technique that some call vertical jigging, mechanical jigging or even speed jigging. There are two popular ways you can do this. The first method involves rapidly lifting and dropping the rod continuously complemented by half a turn of the reels handle with each lift and drop. Each time you lift, turn the reels handle starting from the bottom to the top. Each time you drop, turn the reels handle again this time from top to bottom. The second method involves a sharp lift of the rod then wind the reel as fast as you can as you lower the rod then lift the rod again and repeat the process. When your jig reaches the bottom, start jigging with either one of these methods and if you haven’t had a strike within a few minutes, lower the jig back down and repeat the process.

As mentioned earlier, jigging is unforgiving on fishing gear and only the best will survive. When selecting a reel, the angler has a choice between spin or overhead. With spin reels, apart from weight, large line capacity and strong drags, look for one that has a low gear ratio, preferably in  the 4.3:1 to 4.9:1. This will allow the angler to really rip the jig through the water column and also aid in fighting the fish when hooked up down deep. If opting for an overhead reel, look for one with a narrow spool as this will eliminate any wobble on the spool when jigging. Recommended spin reels include the Shimano stella, twinpower, saragosa, spheros, Accurate twinspin, Daiwa saltiga z and saltiga s extreme, Penn spinfisher USA model and the Pflueger torsion. Recommended overhead reels include the Shimano ocea jigger, trinidad, torium, Daiwa saltiga, Accurate boss, Studio Mark blue heaven and Jigging Master reels.

Other recommended gear for offshore jigging:

Rods – Shimano bluerose, jigwrex, t-curve, , Smith AMJ series and nirai, Jigging master 350-500 series, Ocean revolution 10000 and Hots Wei world

Jigs – 100-500g Williamson abyss and benthos, Zest super deep and deep slim, Saltiga sacrifice, River2sea sea rock and zero dropper, Smith nagamasa, FC labo SL, Hots drift tune

Braid – 50-80lb Sunline pe jigger, Daiwa saltiga boat braid, YGK ultra jigman, Varivas avani, Tuffline XP

Leader – 100-150lb Varivas, Fisherman, Seagur, Yo-zuri, Surecatch, Penn 10x

Hooks – 7/0-13/0 assist hooks by Owner, Fisherman, Shout kudakos, Mustad hoodlum and big gun

Gloves – Zenaq, Smith, Fisherman, Jigging master

Belts – Hots, Fisherman, Seven seas, Jigging master

Miscellaneous – 200-400lb swivels, solid rings and split rings, split ring pliers, braid scissors, gimbal belt

When rigging, start by forming a double on the braid using a bimini twist. This can be anywhere between 50-100cm in length. Next, join the bimini twist double to a leader line of your choice. This connection can be made using an albright knot or the slim beauty. Wind-on leaders are attached using a loop-to-loop or cross loop connection. Leader length should be about 2-5m rated at about 100-150lb. The connection from the leader to the jig is a simple uni knot or loop knot tied directly to a swivel. The swivel is connected to a split ring which is connected directly to the jig. The assist hook is also connected to the split ring. The hook is attached to a piece of kevlar cord with a solid ring at the end. Attachments are made using heavy duty split ring pliers.

Recommended jigging videos

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLbUJakKi0Y&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g6DF733gjHc&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E_VFe4lqlDk&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QE8piLsJRyA&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kBWUDDbqd_I

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q53bM_XH5Zs

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cqSWdOAuuUQ&feature=related

Recommended knot tying videos

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tezh4McgNTA

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s40lmqVux4E

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1YsH1gJJRLw

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IIZ7r-oKTzw

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=29gA6lq-0Vs

Soft plastics fishing has gained huge popularity over the years and has evolved to be probably the most widely adopted fishing style in today’s modern fishing. Take a walk into your local tackle store and you’ll be blown away with the hundreds of different plastics on offer. They come in all different brands, shape, size, colour, scent and action and there is something for everyone to suit every application imaginable. Soft plastics fishing involves the use of artificial soft baits which imitate a live bait and worked in a particular way to trigger a strike. It is a fun and exciting way to fish and  a lot less messier than bait. Another advantage of soft plastics fishing is that one bait can usually account for numerous fish without the need to re-bait. But because it is a specialised form of fishing, it is more expensive than bait fishing. Soft plastics have proven themselves time and time again on the offshore scene but they are just as successful in the bays, creeks and rivers. With the right combination of fishing gear and action,  soft plastics can catch anything from snapper to kingfish to flathead and the list goes on.

Ideal locations for fishing soft plastics offshore is much the same as jigging and float baiting for snapper. Look for baitfish and structure and cast towards the strike zone. Once again, berleying is highly recommended to keep the fish in the area for longer. If fishing the creeks and rivers, the same principle applies as for offshore. Use your GPS to locate structure such a weed beds and drop-offs where the fish are likely to inhabit. Choose whether you want to anchor or drift fish and apply the corresponding strategy. If you do not have access to a boat, you can still successfully fish soft plastics land-based. What you need to do is wade along the bank. Wading the bank is like drifting but by foot. It is a good idea to invest in a pair of waders or a pair of reef shoes to protect your feet. When your wading, essentially what your doing is trying to find the fish. It is a matter of constantly walking up and down the bank while simultaneously casting and retrieving your plastic. It is not recommended to fish from a stationary position because you are not taking full advantage of the situation by limiting yourself to only one small area. Fishing is all about trying to cover as much territory as possible in order to locate the fish.

There are lots of different techniques for soft plastics fishing. I will discuss the two most common techniques used by both recreational and professional fisherman. The critical factor to remember here is to select the right jighead weight and corresponding hook to suit the prevailing conditions and the size of the plastic. The weight of the jighead must be heavy enough to reach the bottom and the hook must have a wide enough gap so it can easily penetrate the fishes mouth unhindered by the plastic. After casting, allow the jighead to hit bottom. Pay close attention to the reel and observe the rate at which the line is peeling off. Sometimes the line can peel off at an overwhelming rate of knots because the fish have actually hit the soft plastic during its descent. When this happens, close the bail arm, strike at the fish and start playing it in. If your plastic does not get smashed on the drop, wait till it reaches the bottom then start to impart some action to the lure by giving the rod some short sharp jerks, taking up the slack line and repeating the process. Quite often, the plastic will get hit on the drop after you have jigged the rod a few times and start to take up the slack. The other technique is to wind up your soft plastic as fast as you can once it has hit bottom. Predatory fish such as kingfish, tuna and trevally simply cannot help themselves and will strike at the plastic believing it is a little baitfish trying to get away.

Selecting a soft plastics reel can be a mind-boggling task. There are literally hundreds to choose from. Spin reels are the best followed by bait casters to a lesser extent. What your looking for in a reel is one that is light enough to be held all day, capable of holding at least 200-300m of braid and equipped with no-nonsense drag systems. For offshore, choose a reel in the 4000 size range. For the bay and estuaries, a 2500 size reel is ideal. Popular reels include the Shimano twin power, stradic, and symetres, Daiwa certate, capricorn, sol and tierras.

Other recommended gear for soft plastics fishing

Rods – Shimano t-curve, raider, Starlo stix tournament, Pflueger president

7ft 1-4kg estuary and bay, 7ft 5-10kg offshore

Braid – Sunline, Fins, Tuffline XP

4-12lb estuary and bay, 20-30lb offshore

Fluorocarbon leader – Vanish, Seaguar, Yo-zuri

10-20lb estuary and bay, 30lb offshore

Jigheads – TT’s, Berkley nitro

1/32-1/2oz with 2-3/0 hook estuary and bay, 1/2-2oz with 5/0-7/0 hook offshore

Soft plastics – Berkley gulp, powerbait, Zoom, Atomic, Snapback and Assassins

1-5inch estuary and bay, 5-10inch offshore

Rigging for soft plastics fishing is similar to that of jigging. Starting with the braid, form a double of about 30-50cm using a bimini twist. Join the bimini double to about 1-2m of fluorocarbon leader using an albright knot. The leader is then tied directly onto the jighead using either a lefty’s loop knot or a uni knot.

Recommended soft plastic videos

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X8gLgyZ5wlU

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tauKI6cMGWY

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BDCRrs2mj9M&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wQVqmjYoybg&p=6400079F58AE2D3C&playnext=1&index=9

Recommended knot tying videos

See Offshore jigging – Recommended knot tying videos